Turkey
Signature City Istanbul
Program No. 18720RJ
From Byzantine art to ancient Greek architecture, from medieval knights to Ottoman sultans, discover the many wonders of Istanbul as you explore 17 centuries of history with scholars.
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8 days
7 nights
15 meals
6B 5L 4D
1
In Transit to Program
In Flight
5
Topkapi & Dolmabahce Palaces
Istanbul
At a Glance
Istanbul is the only place on earth where you can experience two continents, 17 centuries and the customs of dozens of ethnic groups within the confines of a single city. Discover the magical and legendary in Istanbul through presentations on Byzantine history and art, Ottoman architecture and the evolution of the bazaars, along with visits to its great monuments: Hagia Sophia — the grand former cathedral of the Byzantine Empire — the Roman Hippodrome and Topkapi Palace, seat of the Ottoman sultans for over 400 years. Further immerse yourself in history and cultural grandeur as you spend six nights at the elegant Pera Palace Hotel, an accommodation for passengers on the Orient Express and iconic figures such as Agatha Christie, Queen Elizabeth and Ernest Hemingway.
Activity Level
Keep the Pace
Walking up to four hours on crowded city streets and bazaars. Stairs in some buildings and on motorcoaches.
Best of all, you’ll…
- Visit and learn about the world-famous Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque.
- Enjoy a private study cruise on the Bosphorus and marvel at the waterfront palaces, mansions and fortresses.
- Experience the grand property of the Pera Palace Hotel, whose history goes back to the reigns of the Ottoman sultans.
General Notes
Program includes independent time to explore the city and several meals on your own. Group Leaders will provide directions for self-directed excursions. Suggestions for free-time activities provided in preparatory materials.
Featured Expert
All trip experts
Sami Ozcini
Sami Ozcini has shared his love for Turkey — and his home city of Istanbul — with Road Scholar participants for more than 12 years. His on-site lectures bring a different perspective to understanding and appreciating the rich history and legacy of Istanbul. A graduate of Marmara University, Sami has a degree in English literature and enjoys traveling throughout Europe, Australia and the U.S. In his spare time, he enjoys reading and acting as a referee for amateur football games in Istanbul.
Please note: This expert may not be available for every date of this program.
Sami Ozcini
View biography
Sami Ozcini has shared his love for Turkey — and his home city of Istanbul — with Road Scholar participants for more than 12 years. His on-site lectures bring a different perspective to understanding and appreciating the rich history and legacy of Istanbul. A graduate of Marmara University, Sami has a degree in English literature and enjoys traveling throughout Europe, Australia and the U.S. In his spare time, he enjoys reading and acting as a referee for amateur football games in Istanbul.
Zeynep Kuban
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Dr. Zeynep Kuban is an assistant professor of architecture at Istanbul Technical University, one of the most prominent educational institutions in Turkey. Her special area of interest is architectural history. Dr. Kuban’s lectures to Road Scholar participants share her wonderful insights on the creation of one of the world’s most architecturally fascinating cities from early Roman times to the 21st century.

Vehbi Baysan
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Vehbi Baysan earned a Ph.D. in Middle Eastern Studies from the University of Manchester — Institute of Science and Technology in 2004. An instructor at Koc University from 2004-06, he is now director of the international office and a lecturer at Yeditepe University. Dr. Baysan has been teaching courses on contemporary Middle East and late-Ottoman history.
Aysegul Vaizoglu
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Born in Istanbul, Aysegul Vaizoglu left a successful career in the export business to pursue her interests in travel, archaeology and her “urge” to work outdoors. With a proficiency in English and German, she began leading educational excursions for visitors around the world, and enjoys sharing the treasures of Turkey with others. Aysegul has degrees in business administration from Bosphorus University in Istanbul and Michigan State University. In her free time, she enjoys Cuban-style salsa dancing.

Volkan Yazici
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Volkan Yazici was born in 1980 and studied physics engineering at Istanbul Technical University. He became a professional group leader in 2005, specializing in art history and architecture. His hobbies include reading and playing basketball, chess, and bridge. He sas he loves being a group leader because it motivates self-improvement through interaction with people. “It is also very rewarding to introduce Turkey to Road Scholars," Volkan says.

Mahir Ali Pasha
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Mahir has been a certified group leader for over 25 years, and is also an English and tourism administration teacher at the university level. He has degrees in tourism management and teaching. He loves to walk, exercise and watch basketball; he coaches for his son's basketball team.

Kazim Uzunoglu
View biography
Kazim Uzunoglu started his travel career as a licensed national guide in Turkey in 1987. He studied economics at the University of Virginia but decided to stick to the travel business. After many years of leading educational programs around Turkey, he switched to the organizational side of the operation in 2004 and started running Baltac Tourism and Travel, the program provider for Road Scholar in Turkey. His hobbies include riding motorcycles around the world, vintage cars and motorcycles, photography, and rock and roll music.
Suggested Reading List
(12 books)
Visit the Road Scholar Bookshop
You can find many of the books we recommend at the Road Scholar store on bookshop.org, a website that supports local bookstores.
Signature City Istanbul
Program Number: 18720
Istanbul (Poetry of Place)
Istanbul, capital of two great empires, confluence of Asia and Europe, has called forth poetry throughout her long history, from paupers and sultans, natives and visitors alike. When Mehmed the Conqueror first wandered through the ruins of the Byzantine palace, it was with the words of the Persian poet Ferdowsi on his lips: "The spider spins his web in the Palace of the Caesars/An owl hoots in the towers of Afrasiyab". Since then the silhouette of thousand-year-old domes and tapering minarets, the sunsets reflected nightly in a thousand palace windows and the bustle of her markets have inspired Sultan Suleyman, W B Yeats and Nazim Hikmet, amongst others, to salute one of the world's most remarkable cities.
Istanbul: A Tale of Three Cities
From the Koran to Shakespeare, this city with three names--Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul--resonates as an idea and a place, real and imagined. Standing as the gateway between East and West, North and South, it has been the capital city of the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires. For much of its history it was the very center of the world, known simply as "The City," but, as Bettany Hughes reveals, Istanbul is not just a city, but a global story.
In this epic new biography, Hughes takes us on a dazzling historical journey from the Neolithic to the present, through the many incarnations of one of the world's greatest cities--exploring the ways that Istanbul's influence has spun out to shape the wider world. Hughes investigates what it takes to make a city and tells the story not just of emperors, viziers, caliphs, and sultans, but of the poor and the voiceless, of the women and men whose aspirations and dreams have continuously reinvented Istanbul.
Written with energy and animation, award-winning historian Bettany Hughes deftly guides readers through Istanbul's rich layers of history. Based on meticulous research and new archaeological evidence, this captivating portrait of the momentous life of Istanbul is visceral, immediate, and authoritative--narrative history at its finest.
Harem - The World Behind the Veil
The author left Turkey at age 18 for the US, returning 15 years later to visit her birthplace and family. Intrigued upon learning that her grandmother had lived in a harem, she interviewed aunts and other family members about their recollections. About that same time (mid 1970’s) the Harem of Topkapi Palace was opened to visitors. With thoughtful research and richly illustrated, Croutier pieces together a realistic description of daily life in the Sultan’s Harem. Her fascinating insights into customs, food and ceremony of the Palace through 450 hundred years, make this an enjoyable read. The addition of family photographs and an amusing chapter about Western misconceptions of the term “harem” sets this work apart from all other books of its kind.
Birds Without Wings
In his first novel since Corelli’s Mandolin, Louis de Bernières creates a world, populates it with characters as real as our best friends, and launches it into the maelstrom of twentieth-century history. The setting is a small village in southwestern Anatolia in the waning years of the Ottoman Empire. Everyone there speaks Turkish, though they write it in Greek letters. It’s a place that has room for a professional blasphemer; where a brokenhearted aga finds solace in the arms of a Circassian courtesan who isn’t Circassian at all; where a beautiful Christian girl named Philothei is engaged to a Muslim boy named Ibrahim. But all of this will change when Turkey enters the modern world. Epic in sweep, intoxicating in its sensual detail, Birds Without Wings is an enchantment.
Istanbul: The Imperial City
Whether you call it Byzantium, Constantinople, or Istanbul, the “old Turkish hand” John Freely tells the story of each creation and decline up to today’s Istanbul under the Turkish Republic. Spirited and colorful, Freely gives his readers a lively account of the turmoil each incarnation brought. In addition to “page turning history”, Freely gives a complete listing of monuments & museums in the city - he has lived there for decades. This is the one to read on Istanbul if you have a short list of books and limited time to get into its history.
The Bastard of Istanbul
In her second novel written in English (The Saint of Incipient Insanities was the first), Turkish novelist Shafak tackles Turkish national identity and the Armenian "question" in her signature style. In a novel that overflows with a kitchen sink's worth of zany characters, women are front and center: Asya Kazanci, an angst-ridden 19-year-old Istanbulite is the bastard of the title; her beautiful, rebellious mother, Zeliha (who intended to have an abortion), has raised Asya among three generations of complicated and colorful female relations (including religious clairvoyant Auntie Banu and bar-brawl widow, Auntie Cevriye). The Kazanci men either die young or take a permanent hike like Mustafa, Zeliha's beloved brother who immigrated to America years ago. Mustafa's Armenian-American stepdaughter, Armanoush, who grew up on her family's stories of the 1915 genocide, shows up in Istanbul looking for her roots and for vindication from her new Turkish family. The Kazanci women lament Armanoush's family's suffering, but have no sense of Turkish responsibility for it; Asya's boho cohorts insist there was no genocide at all. As the debate escalates, Mustafa arrives in Istanbul, and a long-hidden secret connecting the histories of the two families is revealed. Shafak was charged with "public denigration of Turkishness" when the novel was published in Turkey earlier this year (the charges were later dropped). She incorporates a political taboo into an entertaining and insightful ensemble novel, one that posits the universality of family, culture and coincidence.
Tales from the Expat Harem: Foreign Women in Modern Turkey
As the Western world struggles to comprehend the paradoxes of modern Turkey, Tales from the Expat Harem reveals its most personal nuances. This illuminating anthology provides a window into the country from the perspective of thirty-two expatriates from seven different nations—artists, entrepreneurs, Peace Corps volunteers, archaeologists, missionaries, and others—who established lives in Turkey for work, love, or adventure. Through narrative essays covering the last four decades, these diverse women unveil the mystique of the “Orient,” describe religious conflict, embrace cultural discovery, and maneuver familial traditions, customs, and responsibilities. Poignant, humorous, and transcendent, the essays take readers to weddings and workplaces, down cobbled Byzantine streets, into boisterous bazaars along the Silk Road, and deep into the feminine stronghold of steamy Ottoman bathhouses. The outcome is a stunning collection of voices from women suspended between two homes as they redefine their identities and reshape their world views.
Constantinople; City of the World’s Desire, 1453-1924
Mansel is a noted historian and author of several works about the Sultans and the Ottoman World. This book focuses on the political and architectural history of the capital Constantinople (modern day Istanbul) and covers the span of the Ottoman empire. The book ends on November 17, 1922 when the last Sultan and a small party slipped out of Palace at 8 AM and scrambled aboard a British naval ship that hauled anchor for Malta at 8:43 AM. A fine work, lots of detail, very readable and helpful in sorting out the complexities of 600 years of Ottoman power.
Crescent and Star: Turkey Between Two Worlds
A passionate love for the Turkish people and an optimism that its ruling class can complete Turkey's transformation into a Western-style democracy mark Kinzer's reflections on a country that sits geographically and culturally at the crossroads between Europe and Asia. Kinzer, the former New York Times Istanbul bureau chief, gives a concise introduction to Turkey: Kemal Ataterk's post-WWI establishment of the modern secular Turkish state; the odd makeup of contemporary society, in which the military enforces Ataterk's reforms. In stylized but substantive prose, he devotes chapters to the problems he sees plaguing Turkish society: Islamic fundamentalism, frictions regarding the large Kurdish minority and the lack of democratic freedoms. Kinzer's commonsense, if naeve, solution: the ruling military elite, which takes power when it feels Turkey is threatened, must follow the modernizing path of Ataterk whom Kinzer obviously admires a step further and increase human rights and press freedoms. Kinzer's journalistic eye serves him well as he goes beyond the political, vividly describing, for instance, the importance and allure of the narghile salon, where Turks smoke water pipes. Here, as elsewhere, Kinzer drops his journalist veneer and gets personal, explaining that he enjoys the salons in part "because the sensation of smoking a water pipe is so seductive and satisfying." Readers who want a one-volume guide to this fascinating country need look no further.
The Turkish Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Imperial Ambassador at Constantinople, 1554-1562
The Flemish nobleman wrote his Letters while on an ambassadorial mission to Istanbul between 1554 and 1562, making him a brilliant eye-witness of the Ottoman state at its height, under Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent. Busbecq was a botanist, linguist, antiquarian, scholar and zoologist; he brought back lilac and the tulip.
A Short History Of Byzantium
No time to wade, albeit enjoyably, through his three volume Byzantium series? This recent edition is based on his Byzantium trilogy and is equally as intelligent and inspired. Norwich is, as always, ever entertaining and engaging about this subject. An efficient read without loss of style or spirit. If you can’t manage three volumes right now, this one is for you.
Istanbul: Memories and the City
Turkish novelist Pamuk (Snow) presents a breathtaking portrait of a city, an elegy for a dead civilization and a meditation on life's complicated intimacies. The author, born in 1952 into a rapidly fading bourgeois family in Istanbul, spins a masterful tale, moving from his fractured extended family, all living in a communal apartment building, out into the city and encompassing the entire Ottoman Empire. Pamuk sees the slow collapse of the once powerful empire hanging like a pall over the city and its citizens. Central to many Istanbul residents' character is the concept of hüzün (melancholy). Istanbul's hüzün, Pamuk writes, "is a way of looking at life that... is ultimately as life affirming as it is negating." His world apparently in permanent decline, Pamuk revels in the darkness and decay manifest around him. He minutely describes horrific accidents on the Bosphorus Strait and his own recurring fantasies of murder and mayhem. Throughout, Pamuk details the breakdown of his family: elders die, his parents fight and grow apart, and he must find his way in the world. This is a powerful, sometimes disturbing literary journey through the soul of a great city told by one of its great writers.